Deer Hunting in Oregon - Variety Is the Spice of Life

By Bob D. Russell  | 

One of the great things about living in the state of Oregon, is the wide variety of deer species available to our hunters. From the thick, wet, rain forests of the coast, to the Cascade mountains, to the dry high desert of Eastern Oregon, deer are abundant. Depending on your preference, the following is a brief overview of what and where to hunt:
1. Whitetail Deer:
Found primarily east of the Cascade mountains, these deer have begun a resurgence in Oregon. Previously the domain of mule deer, whitetails have begun to inhabit the lower elevations of Central and Eastern Oregon. From the White River as far east as the Idaho border, whitetail deer can be found feeding in the alfalfa and wheat fields along side our mule deer populations.
2. Mule Deer:
These brutes are found east of the Cascades in the high deserts of Eastern Oregon and in some areas of Southern Oregon where they have interbred with our blacktail deer to create "benchleg" bucks. Largest of our deer species, these bucks are available only by limited draw, and only for a short eleven day season during October.
3. Blacktail Deer:
Smaller than there mule deer cousins, these deer can be found throughout the Coast mountains, through the Willamette Valley, and along the western slopes of the Cascade range. Elusive and nocturnal by nature, these deer represent a difficult trophy to obtain. Available during our general deer season, hunting is available in many parts of Oregon from October through December for these deer.
4. Columbia Whitetail Deer:
The hardest tag in Oregon to draw, this small population of whitetails exist in the southern portion of Oregon, and have only recently been available to hunters. Through exceptional management, this whitetail subspecies, has experienced a comeback from near extinction in Oregon. Smaller than their whitetail cousins, this trophy is a once in a lifetime opportunity for hunters here in the Beaver State.
In addition to the distinct species above, we are beginning to see whitetail-mule deer hybrids and mule deer-blacktail deer hybrids where their territories overlap. These hybrids create one more trophy for the avid hunter to pursue.
That is a quick overview of our whitetail deer, mule deer, and blacktail deer populations here in Oregon. Non-resident tags are available for our limited entry draw as well as our general season, so be sure to add Oregon to your list of hunting destinations.
Remember, time in the field is a gift, savor it.
Until next time, Happy Hunting.

Bob Russell - Bob came to hunting late in life, but has become an avid outdoorsman. Father to two sons, Bob is passing on the traditions of hunting to the next generation. Find out how he can help you find your next great hunting adventure at http://www.thehuntingbroker.com

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Realistic Preparation For Bow-Hunters

By Bradley Vinje

I know numerous bow-hunters who shoot bull's eye after bull's eye when they are shooting at the range under controlled conditions. Bow-hunters shooting at a range usually are standing straight up and the target is directly in front of them on level ground, which is not exactly a realistic hunting scenario. A good portion of those successful target archers go out hunting every fall and do not have a successful shot on an animal when the opportunity presents itself. Bow-hunters who only takes aim at block or paper targets on a range during the off season are not taking the best advantage of their precious preparation time. Don't get me wrong, time spent on the archery range shooting arrows is important and should be a part of the overall preparation for making a good clean shot at the moment of truth. However, range time is only one facet of what is needed to become a well rounded field shot.

Bow-hunters can greatly increase their success levels by implementing a well rounded and realistic training program that prepares them to shoot under a variety of circumstances. I believe in the old adage train the way you play. In other words attempt to shoot your bow under circumstances that mimic an actual hunting experience as close as possible. If you plan on hunting in the rain, snow, or wind you should practice with your bow in less than ideal conditions. Other factors to consider when attempting to replicate hunting situations is the clothing you are wearing and accessories on your bow. If weather permits wear the same clothes you will where when hunting at least part of the time when shooting your bow. If you leave your quiver on your bow while hunting practice shooting that way during the off season, paying attention to these little details can have a big impact on your level of preparation for the hunting season.

There are numerous things you can do to improve your shooting skills for hunting. First of all, practice shooting your bow from a variety of positions and angles. Shoot while your standing, kneeling, and while leaning around obstacles The first time you shoot your bow while kneeling down and leaning around a tree should not be at the deer of a lifetime. If your options are limited and you have to go to a range be creative. An empty 55 gallon drum or piece of plywood propped up make great obstacles to shoot around. Hunters who utilize tree stands need to practice shooting from elevated positions.

3D archery targets replicating animals are readily available and can be reasonably priced. If you don't want to purchase your own many clubs and archery stores have 3D ranges available to use for a nominal fee. Becoming proficient in hitting a 3D target in the appropriate vital area will increase a hunter's likelihood of successfully killing an animal while hunting. Another thing to experiment with 3D targets is placing the target behind obstacles replicating hunting situations where a portion of your animal is behind a tree or other obstacle. Anytime you are going to be hunting an animal you are not familiar with you practice on a 3D target of that animal ahead of time if possible.

Another training aid I really like is virtual archery simulators. These simulators project a realistic view onto a large screen, typically 20 yards away. Hunters have the ability to go through numerous scenarios in a short amount of time; a few weeks ago I shot 104 arrows at a simulator in one hour. Simulators provide hunters with another opportunity to shoot at realistic looking animals. Simulators also prepare the hunter to shoot animals at different angles and it also helps the hunter develop decision making skills on when to take a shot do to the fact in a lot of the scenarios the animal is moving for a good portion of the time leaving the hunter with a small window of opportunity.

If you are already taking advantage of all of these training aides and concepts you're probably a pretty decent field shot. If not, revaluate your training program and implement some of the ideas in this article. I guarantee it will make you more prepared for that all important shot. Who knows, you might only have one opportunity next season; make it count!

Bradley Vinje is an avid outdoorsman and life long resident of Wisconsin. Although he enjoys all outdoor activities he has a particular passion for bow-hunting and fishing for Walleyes and Muskie He is the operator and editor of The Hunt and Fish Blog (thehuntandfishblog.com), which is a free website containing hunting and fishing resources for both experienced and novice sportsmen.

To See more check out my blog at http://www.thehuntandfishblog.com/

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Beginner Fly Fishing Gear Checklist

By Stanley Stanton

Consider making a checklist of the fly fishing accessories that you will need for your fly fishing trips. Have you ever gone fly fishing and sometime during the day discovered that a needed item was left at home? If you are a fly-fishing beginner or a seasoned veteran who is short on time, it's a good idea to have a checklist of needed items. If you are going to an exotic fly-fishing destination you need to make a list. The following is a grouping of items you may need on your checklist to support your next fly fishing adventure.

#1. Basic Items: First is the fly rod and reel; that's easy, but you may want to take a backup rod and reel in case of damage or failure. Consider a couple extra fly reel spools with a floating; sinking or wet tip fly lines. If you are making a trip to an exotic destination, you may need extra bulk spools of backing and leader material, or extra leaders in a wide range of lengths, and tippet strengths an a leader wallet might be handy.

#2. Optional Items: Fly-fishing vest and flies especially for the waters you are fishing, dry flies, fly floatant, and dry fly leaders. Your vest should have a fly patch to dry out water-logged flies. Nymphs and wet flies may need to be fished with strike indicators and shot for weight. Consider small pliers, leader nippers, hook hone, catch-releases tool, and small scissors. A med-sized Swiss army knife, flyline conditioner, stream thermometer, landing net, Campsuds, small hand towel, extra empty fly box plus an assortment of terrestrials and streamers flies.

#3 Needed Items: Waders, wading boots, or flats boots, wading staff, wader belt, studded sandals, Aquaseal adhesive, extra boot strings, float tube fins, inflatable PFD and accessories, extra boot socks, 2 pairs of polarized sunglasses, UVA & UVB waterproof sun block lotion SPF45, SPF 30 sun gloves, brimmed fishing hat, mosquito spray, dry bag, rain gear and a good rain hat, cold-weather clothing, underwear and gloves.
Thank you for taking the time to read what I have to say. Good fishing, and please respect our environment and practice catch and release.

For more fly-fishing tips and information please visit: http://www.oregon-fly-fishing-with-stan.com

Stanley Stanton: Oregon Fly Fishing Guide and McKenzie River fishing guide, Visit: http://www.oregon-fly-fishing-with-stan.com

For trout fly fishing tips, how to fly fish information, plus guided Rainbow Trout Fly Fishing, Steelhead Fly Fishing, classes for beginners and advanced fly fishing and Oregon Salmon Fishing.

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More Than One Way to Skin a Wild Turkey

By Craig Holt

So you've called in your bird, taken your best shot, filled your tag, your gobbler is on the ground and you're admiring its iridescent gold and brown plumage, its long beard and impressive spurs. As you carry your beautiful wild turkey over your shoulder to your vehicle, your mind probably wanders to the next step - cleaning and preparation of the bird for cooking.

There are two basic ways to clean a wild turkey, and they depend upon how the bird will be cooked, as a whole or in parts. Most modern wild turkey hunters opt for removing the breasts and legs, but you can go the entire route if you want a full-size bird to put on the table. Cleaning an entire wild bird takes a few more minutes and more work than simply removing the breast and legs. It first involves plucking the bird's feathers from its body.

The way to start is by placing the bird on its back and "fluffing" its breast feathers. Note: do this outside; you don't want to pluck a turkey in your wife's kitchen. Move your working hand (the other hand will have to hold the turkey) against the "grain" of the breast feathers and fluff them into the air, then grab a handful of feathers and jerk away from the grain. The feathers should detach from the turkey's skin fairly easily. Be sure to have a plastic bag handy so you can deposit your feathers into it to prevent them from scattering in the wind and perhaps sticking to the bird. Some people dip a bird in a vat of boiling water for a few seconds, and then pluck the feathers from the body.

After plucking feathers from just below its neck to its tail feathers, turn the bird on its stomach and repeat the process, removing feathers from its lower back to its neck and underneath its wings. Remove the flight feathers from the wings to the first wing joint (if you can't pull them free, use a knife to cut them out), then cut off the wing from the first joint. Pluck feathers from the turkey's neck then remove the head (you already should have removed its beard).

Now your bird is ready to have its entrails removed. Starting at the breastbone's center, cut just beneath the skin down each side. Keep your knife cut shallow so you don't penetrate the intestines. Fold or pull down the membrane holding the interior organs in place, then reach inside the body cavity and carefully pull those organs toward the opening your cut has created. After removing the interior organs (lungs, stomach, liver, gall bladder, kidneys, intestines), wash out the body cavity with water. Look for any organs you may have missed and remove them. Also wash the turkey's exterior, then remove its feet. Now you have a whole turkey ready to be roasted, smoked or deep-fried.

The other and probably most-preferred method of cleaning a wild turkey is by skinning. It's less labor intensive and also results in breast meat that can be grilled. As in plucking a whole bird, start by placing the bird on its back with is feet pointing away from your head (this is best done by sitting on the ground or on a porch step) and fluffing the breast feathers, plucking them until the breast is entirely exposed to underneath the wings and down to the drum sticks (legs). Now, take a sharp knife and cut the skin on either side of the centerpiece breast bone and peel the skin away from the breast meat. To remove the breast, cut down one side of the breastbone and keep cutting until you remove the breast section. Repeat the process for the other breast piece. You should have two lovely pieces of meat that can be sliced into small pieces and grilled or sprinkled with salt and pepper, battered and fried in a frying pan with vegetable oil. Turkey breast fried this way tastes exactly like pork tenderloin.

To remove the legs, simply keep peeling the skin back to the knee joint, then cut through at the joint. The second cut will be made along the side of the turkey's body where the legs are attached, then press down with some force to break the ligaments at that joint, then cut through the joint. This final cut will remove the leg from the turkey's body. Now wash the breast and legs and remove any feathers or detritus sticking to the bird. After salting thoroughly, place the breasts and legs in a large bowl, fill with water and place in a refrigerator to soak over night (this removes excess blood and will improve the taste of the meat).

If you're hunting during a hot day and kill a wild turkey, it's a good idea to field dress the bird, especially if you plan to hunt for a second bird or have a long drive home.
Place your bird on its back, and at the bottom of the breastplate use your knife to cut down to the anal opening. Remove the entrails from this opening, then reach into the upper portion of the body, cut the bird's windpipe and remove the heart and lungs. If you have extra water, splash it inside the body cavity. Even better, pack it with ice, if available.
If you want to save a gobbler's body parts for mounting by a taxidermist, you can remove the fan tail of a gobbler (and, of course, the feet and beard). If you want a full-body mount, let a taxidermist skin and gut the turkey for best results.

For information on skinning a turkey visit North Carolina Sportsman

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The Art of Bagging a Trophy Tom From a Ground Hunting Blind

By Marianne Porter

Turkey hunting does not have to be a battle with cramped legs, tired arms, sore back, and painful posterior. Ground hunting blinds offer a more comfortable and a more enjoyable option for the avid turkey hunter. The many different styles and designs of these blinds allow the hunter to bag that trophy tom in a way that best fits their hunting style. The first step to becoming a successful turkey hunter is learning some general facts about wild turkeys.

One of the keenest senses that a turkey has is his vision. Unlike deer hunting where the hunter can get away with minimal movement, a wild turkey will bust you for the most minute movement. The eyesight of a wild turkey is so keen that even the slightest movement will sent them running in the opposite direction. Ground hunting blinds can help hide these slight movements.

Since the wild turkey is a prey specie, its eyes are located on the side of the head. Because of this, the turkey's frontal vision is somewhat limited. When they walk, the turkey has to move its head from side to side to judge the distance of objects. Also, unlike deer, when a wild turkey is spooked by movement, he's not coming back. A spooked deer may come back around for a second chance, but not a wild turkey. Chances are when a wild turkey is spooked, he is long gone.

Just as keen as the eyesight of a wild turkey is the turkey's hearing. Just like the eyes, the ears are also located on the side of the head. This allows the turkey to hear sounds all around it. When the turkey initially hears a sound, the bird will have to turn its head from side to side to determine from which direction the sound is coming. While investigating the sound, the bird will give an alarm signal first. After the bird gets the direction of the questionable movement or sound, it can then determine the direction of flight. When hunting wild turkeys, the hunter had better be quiet and be in a ready position even before a bird is actually sighted. This makes hunting wild turkeys from ground hunting blinds even more profitable.

The next important thing to understand about wild turkeys is their roosting habits. Turkeys prefer to roost in large trees with plenty of high horizontal branches. They will look for these trees near food sources and running water. Good food sources include agricultural crops, acorns, and open green fields which all supply the high energy foods that wild turkeys crave. In the colder climates in the spring, turkeys love low swampy areas especially along creeks. The warmth of early spring temperatures causes the grubs and other insects to come up out of their dormant winter state. Wild turkeys love to scratch around in that black muck searching for grubs and other larva to feast on.

To find the roost area, look for droppings and feathers lost while flying up to the roost. As the sun sets on a beautiful April evening, listen for the gobble of a roosting tom. A quick hoot on an owl call will frequently get a response from a roosting tom. A fresh early morning spring sunrise will send the roosting toms gobbling out their love sick cries. Once the roosting area is found, find a good feeding area near the roost. Turkeys will always roost close to food sources.

Once a good roost area has been located, now is the time to pop up a ground blind. The best location is between a good roosting area and a good food source. Wild turkeys are not bothered by the sudden appearance of a ground hunting blind. Unlike deer, the wild turkey does not seem to take notice of a newly located blind. Nevertheless, try to locate the ground hunting blind near natural brush, along the edge of fields, or along fence lines as much as possible.

Most ground hunting blinds set up in a matter of minutes. Enter the hunting blind about ½ hour before the first peak of morning light. As the morning breaks, listen for the toms gobbling from their roost. By listening, the exact location of a roosting tom can be pinpointed. Another great benefit of a ground hunting blind is the degree of mobility. If the first morning hunt proves that the blind was not in the exact correct location, switching locations for the next morning or even for that evening is quick, quiet, and easy.

The many styles of ground hunting blinds include fold out camouflage barriers, hub-style ground blinds, spring steel hunting blinds, chair blinds, and even 3-D ponchos. Any of these blinds equipped with a trigger stick and a comfortable hunting chair makes sore limbs and sore posteriors just a humorous memory. Since spring brings many rainy days and some turkey hunting seasons last only a week, ground hunting blinds can overcome any weather condition.

It is easy to see that ground hunting blinds offer the turkey hunter flexibility, mobility, comfort, and great camouflage. Turkey hunting is a challenging sport. The feeling of being within a couple of feet of that strutting tom is second to none. Spring in to this year's turkey season in a ground hunting blind. You will be hooked for life.

Marianne Porter is the author who bagged many trophy toms from ground hunting blinds.

Please visit http://www.huntingblindoutlet.com/trophypage to view some of Marianne's trophy birds. For more information and to view a selection of quality name brand ground hunting blinds, trigger sticks, and hunting chairs, please visit http://www.huntingblindoutlet.com. You too can have all the comforts and conveniences of these great products.

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Trout Fishing With Kids

By Vincent L Jacques

Trout fishing can be great for all ages, but there are some real important things you should keep in mind when fishing with kids.

Kids who have had an opportunity to go trout fishing and learn how to fish for trout, will typically remember these pleasurable experiences for a lifetime. So reach out and bring a child trout fishing. Whether it is your family member (i.e. grandchildren, nieces and nephews, etc.) or children through a local big brother program, a scouting program and/or town recreational programs, take the time and get involved and pass along the tradition of trout fishing today. You'll feel really good about it and you may be a positive influence on someone, who can then pass it along again, long after you're gone.

However, kids are kids and they will continue to be kids. There are a number of things that are important to remember when trout fishing with children. This article has been written to provide some helpful trout fishing tips while trout fishing with children.
First of all, when dealing with children, trout fishing or not, the most important things to remember are safety and child comfort. If the child is not a family member, follow the scouting rule of thumb and always have another adult present and several kids together. Although, while in the actual act of trout fishing, it is always better to keep the kids separated from each other, otherwise they'll surely create too much noise and will likely bicker over bait, first catches, etc. Set-up time, break meetings and a lunch time provide enough time for the kids to be kids with each other. Anyway, be sure to watch the child the entire time he or she is in your care. You really should never take your eye off the child, as they are often curious and can wonder off very easily. Kids who haven't been around the water much will also want to spend their time as close to it as they can get. So watch carefully!

Always be sure to have a first aid kit with you and it can't hurt to get yourself trained in first aid. If you go trout fishing with enough times with children, you will know that one of the hardest things to prevent is a child getting "hooked", which obviously is never fun.
Trout fishing comfort with kids is important. Make sure they are prepared for the elements, depending on where and what time of year you are trout fishing. Whether it is layered clothing, gloves, feet and hand warmers in the cooler areas/months or sunscreen in the warmer months, always be prepared. Always make sure to have enough water-drinks, as well as snacks, to keep everybody hydrated and happy! With hydration and snacks, comes you know what. Always try not to pick fishing spots that are far to walk to or are too far removed from bathrooms!

Kids get easily distracted, trout fishing or not. As such, be sure to have a nearby back-up plan, if the trout fishing scene isn't catching on as quickly as you had hoped. Perhaps have a nearby area, obviously away from other fisherman, where you might be able to skim rocks on the water, do some turtle spotting or pine cone hunting.
Now that we have touched a little on child safety and comfort while trout fishing, let's talk some trout fishing (or really any fishing for that matter). Remember, you want the child to learn some things and you are the teacher. Be patient, keep it simple and most importantly, make it fun! When it's the child's first time trout fishing, it is always best to start with live bait and bobber. Teaching a kid to hook a wiggly worm or minnow will take some time and we suggest baiting the hook the first couple of times to get some quick action and engagement. Kids love watching a bobber, so long as it's moving more than once and a while. Pick a spot where you know they can do some trout fishing and catch some fish. You know where to go!

Set yourself up a rig as well, so if your bobber goes down first, you can give him or her the opportunity to reel their first catch in. Now remember, kids react in different ways to their first caught fish. Some are exited and want to hug that slimy slippery fish, while others may be frightened and actually a little freaked out. Just be prepared for whatever reaction there is. Talk with the child as often as you can, teaching, but more importantly listening. Let the conversation go where it goes. They do have wonderful fast-paced minds and the conversations are always unique and rewarding.

Teach the catch and release method while trout fishing and show the child how to respect the environment by treating and releasing the fish properly, collecting trash and litter and leaving only footprints. The secret is to help kids learn to appreciate fishing and the outdoors in general.

If the child shows an interest in fishing, set-up another fishing trip and get he or she involved in the preparation next time, perhaps making lunch or digging for worms the night before. Going night-crawling with my dad is one of the best memories I have!
In the end, the overall goal should be to develop a relationship with the child. Going trout fishing, you can invest quality time in a child's life and teach them some values that will be important to them down the road, never mind just spending time with you. That means more to them than you will ever know!

So what are you waiting for, get to know some kids and go trout fishing!

Vincent L. Jacques is a Professional Engineer in the Environmental Engineering Field, an entrepreneur, business owner, writer, photographer, angler, wine connoisseur, investor, philatelist, domainer, web-site developer, collector, diver, husband and dad. Vincent has started and sold several businesses over the years, including Kenyon Environmental Inc., New England Geotech and Alternative Technologies. Vincent has had presence on the internet as early as 1995, with Kenyon Environmental Inc, Kinetic Capital Management and AvoidLines. Other entities currently operated by Vincent include foampix and vinsdomains.

Latest business/community launches by Vincent include http://www.troutweekly.com
Trout Weekly is new community for anglers who enjoy trout. Trout Weekly has been created for those who have an interest in trout fishing. Whether you are a beginner looking to catch your 1st trout or an experienced angler looking to catch more trout, you'll want to check this site out! Trout Weekly will strive to post a fresh article every week! Our goal is to provide you with the latest news, proven fishing products and information from experienced trout anglers, so that we all can catch more fish (especially trout).

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Alaska Big Game Hunting - Guide Services, Hunting Licenses and Regulations

By Mark B. Allen

Alaska is a big state with a big reputation to uphold when it comes to big game hunting. With 350,000,000 acres, Alaska alone is one-fifth the size of the entire United States, making finding and taking big game a challenge. Hunting in Alaska offers many challenges that hunting in the lower 48 does not - lower game density, seasonal movement of game and the distances of movement. Careful consideration of seasons and species is the key to a successful trip. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Wildlife Conservation have put together a "Plan Your Hunt Workbook" that is available on their website as a downloadable PDF. This document encourages you to think your adventure through, then gives you the tools to organize and choose the options to make the most of your trip whether this is a guided adventure or a lone venture.
Below is additional information essential to the success of your trip:

TYPES OF HUNTS
In Alaska, there are two types of hunts:
- General season hunts - the type of hunts most people are familiar with. Purchase a license, get tags or harvest tickets for big game, and follow the general season dates and bags limits.
- Permit hunts - Harvest is restricted by permit when hunter demand is higher than game population can sustain.
Three kinds of permit hunts

1. Drawing hunts
-Available to residents and nonresidents
-Require an application fee and awarded by lottery
-Two lotteries each year - winter and spring
-ADF&G publishes supplements outlining hunt opportunities and hunt boundaries

2. Registration hunts
-Most available to residents and nonresidents
-Generally do not limit the number of registrations
-Seasons are closed by emergency order is harvest quota is met

3. Tier II hunts
-Subsistence hunts available only to residents
Details for permit hunts are available on the ADF&G web site

FINDING A GUIDE SERVICE
A nonresident who hunts brown/grizzly bear, Dall sheep, or mountain goat must be accompanied by a licensed guide OR by an Alaska resident over 19 years of age who is within the "second degree of kindred" (which means a father, mother, brother, sister, son, daughter, spouse, grandparent, grandchild, brother- or sister-in-law, son- or daughter-in-law, father- or mother-in-law, stepfather, stepmother, stepsister, stepbrother, stepson, or stepdaughter who ARE residents). Nonresident aliens (someone who is not a resident of Alaska NOR a US citizen) must have a guide for hunting all species of big game.

SOME PLACES TO FIND A GUIDE
-References. Ask friends, colleagues, acquaintances about their experiences.
-Trade shows in the lower 48 during the winter. Many guide services are represented at these shows. Ask them for references and follow up on the references offered.
-Advertising sections in the back of outdoor magazines.
-Web sites.
-Obtain a list of big game guide-outfitters that provide services for a particular species. This is available from ADF&G, Wildlife Conservation (907-465-2376).

ALASKA HUNTING LICENSES
Licenses, big game tags, duck stamps and hunting permits are available from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Wildlife Conservation and are obtainable online. Purchase ahead of time and bring them with you. Licenses are good from the date of purchase through December 31 of the license year. Big game tags are necessary for nonresidents if you plan to hunt brown/grizzly bear, black bear, bison, caribou, deer, elk, goat, moose, bull musk ox, sheep, wolf or wolverine.

HUNTING SEASONS
Alaska's 350,000,000 acres are broken up into 26 Game Management Units (GMUs). Each unit sets its own seasons for the various species of big game. A map of these units and the regulations pertaining to them can be found on the web. Click on the GMU of interest and a document defining the seasons will open. A complete copy of the Alaska Hunting Regulations can also be downloaded at the ADF&G site.
A general calendar for hunting seasons is as follows:
April - Most spring bear seasons open
May - Many spring bear seasons close
August - Some Dall sheep, caribou, deer, and moose seasons open.
September - Most fall seasons open, include moose
November - Some last winter moose hunts open

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST
If you are a nonresident alien (meaning you are not a resident of Alaska NOR a U.S. citizen, some restrictions exist on bringing your own gun into Alaska. Regulations require a filled out form and a hunting license. Details are available from The U.S. Department of Justice/Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) at 202-927-8320 or from their website.

If you're going to Alaska to hunt then make the absolute most of it. One key to a memorable trip is having the right guide. Review a directory of Alaska guide services and conduct solid homework beyond that. Get references. On Mark Allen's hunting and fishing website you'll learn not just about hunting but also about Alaska fly fishing and the different regions most popular with sportsmen.

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Hunting - Basic Survival Equipment

By Greg Bruning Sr.

 
When hunting it is imperative that one carries the basic survival equipment. Whether the hunt takes place in the backyard property or on a hunt in familiar land basic survival equipment should be carried as if the hunter were in unfamiliar territory. The amount of equipment used for a bigger expedition of course would be greatly increased, but the main focus is on basic survival equipment. These are everyday items that should always be included.

1. Compass and Map- Many outdoorsmen become disoriented. No matter what the reason for this disorientation inability is rarely the cause. A quick glance of the terrain and a compass can quickly solve this problem. If on unfamiliar territory a compass can be used with a map to triangulate your location from land features. This is a very important tool in survival.

2. Water bottle-The old saying goes "without food you can live for three weeks, without water you can only live three days". Food grows in the woods, much of which can sustain us. Water that is usually found in the woods has the potential to hurt us more than help, and should only be drank if in dire circumstances.

3. Waterproof Matches and or a Butane Lighter (or two)- Fire has many uses as man has found through the centuries. It can keep you warm if lost, wounded or disoriented. Fire can signal to others a location with the use of the smoke. Fire can also be very comforting psychologically in adverse conditions. It is very important to be able to create a fire. Butane lighters are handy, can be dried if wet and have a flint built into them in worst-case scenarios, and they are light.

4. Flashlight with Extra Batteries- A hunter never knows when the shot is going to be made available. Sometimes this is near last light. Without the use of a good flashlight, the hunt could end in the loss of a downed animal, not only is this bad for the name of hunting it can easily be avoided with a flashlight. Some of which are specifically designed to show the blood trail. There are also the more likely uses such as getting out of the woods after last light or getting into stand before first light.

5. Ground cloth of plastic or Mylar- In the event of injury or disorientation, sometimes it becomes necessary to stay in the wild overnight. Fire can be a great advantage, add to this a place to sit that's dry or a way to cover up from elements and survival can be greatly improved.

6. Bandage, Tape and Band-Aids- A person can never know when they are going to become injured, and in the hunting fields and woods there are plenty of ways to become injured. Bow hunters carry sharp arrows and most all hunters carry knives. Having a few small items to repair or temporarily treat an injury can greatly improve comfort as well as survival.

7. Whistle- mainly used for signaling in the event of injury or disorientation. The whistle can be heard for great distances and through thicker vegetation. The human voice can be loud but is easily broken up by forest cover and is no competition for the loudness of a good whistle. Whistles are also very handy in the event of predators, and they can be scared off by the shrill of a whistle. This can be very important if injured and in an area with Bears and Mountain Lions, that prey upon injured animals regularly.

Hopefully all of your hunting days will be safe and only result in a bountiful harvest. In the unfortunate event that things don't go as we hope as hunters, be like the Boy Scouts and "Always Be Prepared". Having a Basic Survival Kit put together in your hunting pack could make the difference between Survival and Disaster.

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