Coyote Hunting Tips

By Kevin L Webster You're going to get six of the best coyote hunting tips that I've learned over the past 20 years of coyote hunting. Let me start by telling you that if you are a beginner, coyote hunting is a lot of fun. Every time I go I have a blast and learn something new about the critters. There are lots of ways to hunt coyotes. I'm going to give you tips on what I believe to be the most fun way to hunt coyotes, calling them to you. The first coyote hunting tip that I'll give you is that you will need to do a little scouting before hand to find some areas were coyotes are actually frequenting. These areas will include timber, ditches, grassy areas, water holes and basically locations where there is a good amount of cover. In these areas you will be looking for "coyote sign". Look for coyote tracks, both old and new, coyote dens, and coyotes scat (droppings). Here is the second coyote hunting tip I'll give you. Let's say that you have now found an area where there is good coyotes sign and you are ready to go hunting. Always set yourself up to call down wind of where you expect the coyote to come from (timber, ditch, grassy area, etc.). Coyotes have an exceptional sense of smell so you don't want them to get wind of you. The third coyote hunting tip is you always wear camo clothing that blends in with the season. In other words if it is fall and trees, grass, etc are turning brown, I would recommend brown and green camo. If it is winter and there's snow on the ground I would recommend white camo. Just be sure you blend in as well as possible with your surroundings. Coyotes also have very good eyesight so anything you can do to not be detected it is highly recommended. Coyote hunting tip number four is to hunt with a partner whenever possible. I seldom hunt alone. One reason is safety. The main reason though is being able to see the whole area that you are hunting. It can be very hard for one person to scan the entire area by yourself without a lot of movement. The less you move the better. Number five and is to choose the right call for your area. I live in Missouri where a large part of the coyotes diet is cottontail rabbit and field mice. So I mainly use a cottontail rabbit distress call and a mouse squeaker. The key for you will be to determine what the coyotes in your area are eating and use the proper call. If you live out west where jack rabbits or more prevalent than cottontails, you would probably want to use a jackrabbit distress call which has a lot raspier tone than a cottontail call. Coyote hunting tip number six is to start calling very low in volume. The reason for this is that there could be a coyote very close to you. If you were to start calling very loudly it may spook the coyote. After a couple of times of calling very low in volume, you should begin calling louder and louder. If a coyote does not appear in about 20 minutes, I suggest moving on to another area. Hope these have been helpful coyote hunting tips. Now get out there and have yourself some fun. And be sure to take a child hunting whenever possible. Kevin Webster Kevin Webster is an avid outdoorsman with over 20 years experience hunting coyotes and predators of all kinds. For more Coyote Hunting Tips as well as other predator hunting tips and techniques visit his blog at: http://coyotecalling.blogspot.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kevin_L_Webster Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1980629

Steelhead Fishing Techniques

You have all the gear you need to head out on the river and start pulling in that steelhead. However, what are you going to use for bait or to hook them and just how are you going to fish for them? You have a number of ways that you can fish but each will require their own special gear. Drift fishing for steelhead may be the most common method used when steelhead fishing. By Robert R Smith It requires the least amount of gear since all you need is a weight/sinker and a hook. Drift fishing produces steelhead for anglers on a steady basis also. However, drift fishing does require that an angler learn how to read the river and they will need to realize just what a bite feels like. Although the steelhead is large and aggressive fish, their bite can be quite difficult for the beginning angler to detect. Even after forty years of fishing, they still surprise me from time to time. For the beginning angler there are two ways that I recommend for them to try when first starting out. Jig fishing or plunking for steelhead are easy productive ways of fishing. Jig fishing with a bobber or float is the most productive way I have found for the novice angler to start catching fish. The bite is easy to detect since you watch your float and when it goes down you set the hook. You do not have to worry about getting snagged, and spend all your time tying on new rigs. You can watch your float and know exactly where you jig is at, making it easier to find the seams in the river. It is one of the best ways an angler can fish deep slow moving pools, I use this method on a number of hole that I would not be able to fish other wise. Plunking is a style of fishing just as its name implies. You set up a rig, and plunk it out in the river and wait for a steelhead to come along and take your offering. Plunking too can be very productive under the right circumstances. Learning when and where to use this method will take some experience however. Unless some one has shown you, a good place and time to try this method you will be better of using the float and jig as it will produce fish through out the season. Using a side planner along with a hotshot lure or something similar is an exciting way to catch steelhead also. Here again you need to know how to read the river and have some idea of where a steelhead will lay or travel through. Once you learn how to set this up and fish it correctly, it will produce fish on days when nothing else will work. I should mention here that fly-fishing for steelhead might not be the most productive method of catching steelhead it for sure is the most exciting and we ill be covering fly-fishing in later articles also. For those of you that would like to give fly-fishing a try you will need to have lots of patients and strong determination; however, the rewards are well worth the effort once a steelhead is on your line. If you have access to a boat then trolling, back trolling, back drifting, are some of the other ways you can fish. If you do not have a boat do not worry as a majority of the steelhead we catch are from the bank. Even when we have had use of a boat, we often find ourselves beaching the boat so we can fish a hole from shore. I would be the first to say a boat is nice to have at times; however, they are not a necessary item to catch steelhead. Learning what technique to use, and when to use it, comes with experience and we will be covering each of these in detail in the coming days. We are going to be talking about what type of gear you will need for each technique, show you how to set it up, where to use it, and how to seek out those holding spots where steelhead just love to lay. Until Next, time The Steelhead Angler. Steelhead, Salmon and Trout Fishing has been a passion of mine since I was a young boy. Most of my free time was spent on lakes and streams here in the northwest, and I have picked up on some interesting facts about fishing for these species over the last 45 years. I would like to share them with you through articles and at my websites I hope you find them helpful and enjoyable. So please stop by check out some information or just stock up on your fishing gear. Hope to see you on the river! RR Smith http://www.steelheadangler.savings-direct.com For all your Steelhead/Salmon fishing needs Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robert_R_Smith Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1917828

Basic Turkey Hunting Tips

Turkey hunting is challenging, exciting and in some cases becomes addictive. Turkey's senses are extremely keen - even your heart pounding can make the turkey vanish like a puff of smoke. By Niall Barco Basic help in turkey hunting Before you can hunt a wild turkey, you have got to find them. The easiest way to do this is by locating the general areas of the turkey's habitat. o Get a good map of the area you plan to hunt. o Wave or use a locator call like an owl hooter or crow call or even a turkey call to try to get a response. When you hear a gobbler, mark the locator map. o Scout for the best location on foot. Check for signs of the bird's scratches, droppings of feathers. This information can help you locate some areas. Check along mud holes, creek banks, pastures, log roads, fencerows etc. as many trips as possible. o Never try to get too close to the turkey. A turkey's eyes, ears and awareness are many times better than yours. o Choose a tree that is wider than your shoulders. This will protect you from other hunters that might come behind you and mistakenly assume that you are a real turkey. o Camouflage is almost a must to avoid being seen. Wild turkeys have such keen vision. Many turkey hunters usually wear camo suit, cap, facemask, gloves, vest with many pockets to carry calls and maybe a snack. Also do not forget to wear dark colored socks so that when you sit down, they would not show you. But the main thing to remember: your movement is more important; regardless of how well you are camouflage. It doesn't make you completely visible. Even though you are camouflage, you are still an unnatural form in the woods. Movement is the greatest enemy of the turkey hunter. A turkey can detect you 10 times faster than you sense the turkey. o The best shotgun and ammunition for turkey hunting is the combination that delivers a dense, hard-hitting pattern at 40-45 yards. Practice with a target that portrays a turkey's vital head and neck area. These parts are the ones that you should be shooting. You should have at least 8-10 pellets in the vital area at 40 yards. o Do not hide so well that you cannot see what is happening. Blinds are useful for the turkey hunter, but when constructed so well that vision is obstructed, it is no longer a blind, and it is a hiding place, as beneficial to the turkey as it is to you. o Cease from using gobbler calls. Although this call can sometimes be productive, it is also very dangerous. In areas where many hunters are located, you can attract hunters to you rather than turkeys. o Never wear any red, white or blue clothes. These are the colors of the gobbler's head - the main target of a turkey hunter. o If another hunter is working a bird, do not mess everything up by trying to call the bird to you or spooking the bird. This is very unsportsmanlike. The true and experienced hunters do not do that kind of thing. Niall Barco has been learning about turkey hunting for five years. Turkey-Hunting.info offers news, information, views and turkey hunting tips [http://Turkey-Hunting.info]. Copyright [http://Turkey-Hunting.info] All rights reserved. This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links back to Turkey-Hunting.info are included intact. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Niall_Barco Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/141135

Deer Hunting in Oregon - Variety Is the Spice of Life

One of the great things about living in the state of Oregon, is the wide variety of deer species available to our hunters. From the thick, wet, rain forests of the coast, to the Cascade mountains, to the dry high desert of Eastern Oregon, deer are abundant. Depending on your preference, the following is a brief overview of what and where to hunt:

1. Whitetail Deer:

Found primarily east of the Cascade mountains, these deer have begun a resurgence in Oregon. Previously the domain of mule deer, whitetails have begun to inhabit the lower elevations of Central and Eastern Oregon. From the White River as far east as the Idaho border, whitetail deer can be found feeding in the alfalfa and wheat fields along side our mule deer populations.

2. Mule Deer:

These brutes are found east of the Cascades in the high deserts of Eastern Oregon and in some areas of Southern Oregon where they have interbred with our blacktail deer to create "benchleg" bucks. Largest of our deer species, these bucks are available only by limited draw, and only for a short eleven day season during October.

3. Blacktail Deer:

Smaller than there mule deer cousins, these deer can be found throughout the Coast mountains, through the Willamette Valley, and along the western slopes of the Cascade range. Elusive and nocturnal by nature, these deer represent a difficult trophy to obtain. Available during our general deer season, hunting is available in many parts of Oregon from October through December for these deer.

4. Columbia Whitetail Deer:

The hardest tag in Oregon to draw, this small population of whitetails exist in the southern portion of Oregon, and have only recently been available to hunters. Through exceptional management, this whitetail subspecies, has experienced a comeback from near extinction in Oregon. Smaller than their whitetail cousins, this trophy is a once in a lifetime opportunity for hunters here in the Beaver State.

In addition to the distinct species above, we are beginning to see whitetail-mule deer hybrids and mule deer-blacktail deer hybrids where their territories overlap. These hybrids create one more trophy for the avid hunter to pursue.

That is a quick overview of our whitetail deer, mule deer, and blacktail deer populations here in Oregon. Non-resident tags are available for our limited entry draw as well as our general season, so be sure to add Oregon to your list of hunting destinations.

Remember, time in the field is a gift, savor it.

Until next time, Happy Hunting.

Bob Russell - Bob came to hunting late in life, but has become an avid outdoorsman. Father to two sons, Bob is passing on the traditions of hunting to the next generation. Find out how he can help you find your next great hunting adventure at http://www.thehuntingbroker.com

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Being Prepared, Scouting Your Hunting Area

For many of us, hunting is not something we do for one week or one month a year, it is what we look forward to each year that sort of defines how we conduct ourselves the rest of the year. Every time we drive down a back road or go for a hiking expedition in the state forest we are thinking of the time we are going to be out hunting for our favorite type of big game. For this time of year, we are daydreaming of the time when our plan comes together and we are actually successful. As we spend this time daydreaming or thinking about it, a plan is hatched on how we are going to accomplish it. Perhaps the best way to put this plan into motion is by scouting our hunting area so we are not guessing when that opening day finally arrives.

While walking into your hunting area will give you an idea or two about where you want to hunt and how, if you take your scouting trips seriously, it could possibly tell you a whole lot more. I treat my scouting trips more and more like a hunting trip each time out during the year so that I can learn such things as travel patterns, food sources, favorite trails, etc. To be truly effective doing this without changing their patterns requires me to be constantly aware of my scent, the commotion I make, and how close I get to my quarry. Instead of my focus being on getting close to the game like it is during hunting season, my focus is on staying back and observing the game without being detected.

Optics can play a vital role in your scouting as they allow you to get close to your quarry without physically trampling through their trails and bedding areas. A quality spotting scope is one item that can help to accomplish this. By finding a good vantage point and setting up your spotting scope on a tripod you can spend hours observing wildlife without being detected. It is also good to take along a small notepad to take notes on what you observe. You never know when you may notice something significant such as escape trails or how a buck may use the road less traveled to skirt an open field. Depending on when you observe this movement, you may forget about it later when you need that information most.

Another way to make a record would be through the use of a trail camera. With the time stamp and date on every picture you will be able to observe how patterns change as well as the old mossy horn that you had yet to see with your other scouting. Placing your cameras can get tricky because you really have to be careful not to spread your scent around too much in your area, or it could change the games movement.

With the use of optics, scent blockers, and common sense, your scouting trips will quickly become a vital ingredient in each and every hunting adventure you have. Knowing your area and the game within it, is just as important as knowing how to hunt. The best thing about scouting trips is it helps to appease your desire during the off season to be out in the woods hunting.

Bob Darrah, hunting and outdoor enthusiast. For a great selection of spotting scopes and other hunting gear, visit www.huntingforoptics.com

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Bow Hunting Elk

Bow Hunting Elk - An Undertaking That is Fit for the Most Hardy
By Verlyn Ross

Hunting elk has never been considered an easy task but bow hunting elk can offer that highest level of challenge that many hunters are looking for.

Assessing the terrain, getting close, bugling and getting a good shot all have their place for those who choose this method of hunting.

One must be able to combine a number of variables in a very short period of time in order to ensure success. For example, knowing how to quickly choose an appropriate location from which to take the perfect shot requires great skill.

One must also know the capabilities and limitations of their equipment. They must devote many hours of practice to making the particular broadside shot that will bring down this massive animal.

The hunting of elk with a bow requires that hunters get much closer to their quarry than those hunting with a rifle. While some hunters prefer to move in toward their target, others like to get close, bugle and then move away, mimicking a cow on the move and leading a bull into a certain location.

Many find it is easier to set up and wait for the animal to make an entrance than to sneak up on this creature known for its ultra sensitive ability for detecting danger. The shot must be made with special arrows strong enough to pierce the thick hide, cartilage and into the internal organs of large game animals.

Because one must get so close when hunting elk with a bow, being able to recognize a solid location in which to take a shot becomes extremely crucial.

Many hunters do not realize just how large an elk actually is until the animal is upon them. Not only are elk larger than life, their behaviors, mating rituals and distinctive bugle have been known to outright intimidate even the most experienced hunters.

Whether the animal is timid or aggressive, it is important to never put oneself in a bad position just to get close. The unpredictability of hunting is the number one reason safety plays such a major role in this sport.

The hunting of elk with a bow requires that one understand the necessity of what is called a broadside shot. Although an elk may bolt for a number of yards, this type of shot placed just behind the shoulder ensures that both lungs will be pierced eventually taking the animal down.

Many seasoned bow hunters decline the straight on chest shot for fear of hitting only one lung and losing their quarry when it bounds off. When this happens, many find that by the time the elk is tracked down, the meat is of no use.

All of the above is why so many bow hunters find that the use of a bow in hunting elk may be the greatest challenge they have ever faced in hunting.

Verlyn Ross owns and operates a website dedicated specifically to the enjoyment of hunting. It includes a wealth of free articles in which you may have an interest. For a great place to get answers, go here! Freely explore it and visit our Blog ENJOY!

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Choosing a Hunting Scope

When choosing a scope for hunting there are a lot of things to take into consideration. First what caliber of rifle will you be mounting the scope too. What animals will you be hunting with that particular set up. And the power of the scope as to the conditions you will be hunting. Last but not least is your budget, get the best scope you can afford. Its not worth it to put a twenty dollar scope on a five hundred dollar rifle.
Caliber, if using a.22 for squirrels, a 2x - 6x scope should perform well, because most shots are from 20 to 50 yards. For a larger calibers like a.243 - 30-06 a 3x to 9x will perform for most hunting situations. If you are into varmint hunting or long range shots, you can go all the way up to 24x. Now certain manufacturers have BDC type of scopes ( Bullet Drop Compensation) Which takes a lot of the guess work out of hold over for longer range shots. Once set up for the caliber you are using you aim using the built in range compensator dead on and fire.
Also take into consideration what conditions you will be hunting, will it be dense forest, or open plain. If dense forest a lower power scope is best. If open country a higher power scope is best. I prefer variable power scopes so that you can adjust them for the task at hand and gives you more versatility.
Always zero and practice before going into the field, you owe it to yourself and the game you pursue. For smaller caliber rifles a 50 yard zero is what works best for me. For larger calibers I like to be two inches high at 100 yards. When you can consistently can hit what you are aiming at at the range or a controlled shooting area your ready to go hunting.
Good luck and always hunt ethically.
Todd Inman, Owner of Western Outdoor Supply a e-commerce retail web site that sell the finest in Outdoor Gear, Hunting equipment, optics, camping gear, marine electronics and GPS. http://www.westernoutdoorsupply.net