Thursday, March 29, 2012

 Great Product!

We tried this product last evening, and we all give it 5 stars! 

Great flavor on a venison tenderloin from a large old Black Tail Buck I shot this fall.  Marinaded 24 hours before pan cooking, some of the best venison I have ever eaten! One person does not like wild game and said it was very good! My 15 year old son had thirds.

One bottle is enough for three meals making it very economical.

More reviews coming soon!

We have also tried the Santa Maria Style seasoning on steaks, chicken and burgers. Another great product from Local Legends.

 Large Game Marinade

Flavor: A unique blend of bold and sophisticated flavors to pair mellow the gamey flavors of large game. Without overpowering the natural personality of it's host, this marinade adds just the right mixture of garlic, earthy herbs, and acidity from the vinegar .

Applications: Developed specifically for Elk, Venison, Wild Boar, Bear, Moose, and Antelope.

Marinate steaks, roasts and kabobs or massage this marinade into ground meat for the best burgers you've EVER had!

If you're too hungry to wait for the meat to finish cooking, try this appetizer suggestion: combine this marinade with olive oil and a little extra balsamic vinegar and viola! A perfect dipping sauce for french or artisan bread.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

5 Tips for Hunting With Kids

Taking your children hunting can have so many wonderful benefits. They will always cherish those memories and might even grow to love the sport so much that one day they'll share the experiences with their own kids. We put together a few tips that might help make creating the outing easier and more enjoyable for both you and your little ones.

1. Shorten the duration of your usual hunt
Kids have much shorter attention spans, so take that into consideration when deciding how long your hunt should last. Time your trip during an hour that usually has a lot of action, preferably after your child has had a nap. It's important to remember that their enjoyment is your focus-if they say they're tired and ready to go home, it's better to cut the trip short rather than making them stick it out. The last thing you want to do is dampen their enthusiasm, or they may not want to join you on future hunting trips.

2. Appropriately equip and educate your child on safety
When taking small children out, make sure they stay comfortable in warm boots, coat, hat and glove. The more comfortable they are, the more they'll be able to focus on enjoying the outing rather than dwelling on the fact that they're feeling cold and miserable. Do what you can to make this a pleasant experience for them. Talk to them about the different rules they should follow to stay safe. This is a great chance to decrease risk and lay down a foundation of safety practices involved in hunting.

3. Take advantage of educational opportunities
Children are naturally curious. Take advantage of this by using your hunting trip as an opportunity to educate them about the wildlife they're about to encounter. Before you go out, talk about what you're going to do and why you're going to do it. This will help grow anticipation and respect for the animals, and helping them understand what to do to increase the chance for success. This is also a great opportunity to introduce game laws and why we observe them.

4. Be patient
Even on a solo hunting trip, practicing patience is part of the game. This is even more true when you're out with a small child. Their enjoyment should be your top priority, and you can't keep a kid from being a kid. Sure, they might scare off a buck. But the most important thing is that they're having fun and gaining new experiences. If you have a ground blind, this might help conceal the added movements and provide your child the chance to see their first deer. Try to recall your first experience and remember that feeling as you work to provide your son or daughter with the same excitement.

5. Start with small game and let them participate
For some smaller children, they may not fully appreciate the hunt if they come back empty-handed. You might consider starting with smaller game like rabbits or frogs to get started. They may have a better first few experiences when they have something tangible to take home. If you do go big game hunting together, consider letting your child play an active role so that they feel crucial to the outing. Many children can handle certain calls, or maybe being "lookout" with the binoculors will do the trick. They'll always remember the important job they were given when they went hunting.
The main thing to keep in mind is that this is treasured time together. Use these tips as a guide, and your hunting trips will surely create special memories that your kids will never forget.

Katie Frasier is a contributing writer at Hunting Boots News, a blog dedicated to providing the latest hunting boots news, reviews and commentary for the hunting enthusiast.
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Finding Deer Antler Sheds

Most species of deer in North America shed their antlers annually so they may grow larger ones the following year. Finding these sheds is more than just a fun outdoor activity, it's become a sport in itself. If you're interested in trying to find some on your own, follow the advice given here.

Probably the most important factor in determining whether you'll have success finding any antlers is the time of year you go looking for them. Deer shed their antlers between the months of December and March, so this is usually the best time. One exception to this rule is if you're hunting fat north (up into Canada), you may need to go a bit later, as deer here shed later in the year.

If this is your first time going looking for them, you'll need a hunting ground. Common sense should tell you that an ideal hunting ground is going to be where the deer are. If you're a member of a deer hunting club, or know someone who is, see if you can arrange a deal to search for antlers there. Remember, going on private property is both illegal and dangerous, so always make sure you have permission beforehand.
One of the great things about antler hunting is the fact that it requires little gear. The only things you absolutely need are something to carry your finds in (such as a backpack), food, and water. You may also want to carry a hand-held GPS with you as well. It'll allow you to mark your boundaries and other information that could prove useful during your hunt.

There's no secret formula for deciding where you should look. When I go searching for antlers, I scan from the ground to eye-level, looking for any signs of antlers or deer activity. Most people assume antlers will only be found on the ground, but the truth is they are found just about everywhere. It's not uncommon to see antlers stuck in the branches of trees where deer have ran into them and got their antlers stuck. I've also seen antlers on the sides of river banks, crevasses, and in the middle of swamp marshes.
As you look for antlers, also look for deer in the area. If you spot any male deer missing a side of their antlers, there's a chance it's around somewhere.
If you're hunting in a thick forest area with lots of leaves and other debris on the ground, find a long stick nearby that you can use to prod the ground. Antlers can become covered up very quickly when the leaves begin falling, making it impossible for you to spot them otherwise.

The sport of antler hunting is new and many laws and regulations are being changed every year regarding it. Before you partake in this emerging sport, give your states game and fish office a call to find out what's acceptable and what's not. Some states prohibit the taking of antlers that are attached to the skull, while others allow it only under the condition you have proof of killing the deer.

For more information on shed hunting and deer antlers, visit our website.
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Friday, March 16, 2012

Four Essentials of Elk Antler Shed Hunting

Every spring thousands of outdoor enthusiasts head into the mountains in search of bull elk antler sheds. Most folks pick up 2 or 3 every season after spending hours combing the forest and mountains for sheds. I have lived in the eastern White Mountains of Arizona since the early 1990's and have been hunting antler sheds every spring. I generally pick up 30-50 sheds a season and average one about every 2 1/2 hours. Here are some tips on how you can increase your odds of finding bull elk antler sheds.

Mountain weather can be inclimate and change with very little notice. You will need to prepare yourself in advance by wearing the proper outerwear. First off, you need to be wearing a really good pair of boots. The terrain is steep and the footing is loose. Hiking shoes just won't do the job. Hiking boots are better, but your best bet is a good leather Gore-Tex hunting boot. I prefer Danner Boots, they are comfortable and sturdy. Next is a regular pair of denim blue jeans. You are constantly going through brush, butt sliding, kneeling and occasionally slipping and falling. Nylon pants get tore up pretty fast. For a top layer, a wick dry tee-shirt along with a technical nylon or fleece top will work very well. You want to stay warm, but allow the sweat to be wicked away. It's also a good idea to wear a bright color on top especially if you're shed hunting with a partner, you need to be able to see each other from a distance. Camo is generally not a good idea. A good baseball style hat is also essential to keep the sun out of your eyes. I wear a long bill hat from my wife's fly fishing guide business. This is mainly because you will not be wearing sunglasses, sunglasses tint the natural surrounding and you will not see the antlers laying on the ground unless they're old white chalks. Sunglasses also make it difficult to use binoculars effectively.

There are three essential items that you should carry with you at all times when you're shed hunting. The first is a good pair of binoculars. I use a pair of 12x50's that can be purchased for around $100-150. You also want to purchase the over the shoulder straps for the bino's ($15). These will hold the glasses close to your chest and keep them from banging on rocks and hanging up in the brush. Next is a sidearm, if allowed in your state. You will be hiking into prime mountain lion country. I carry a.45 titanium revolver and it has saved my life twice by firing warning shots above charging lions. I have never killed one. (Perhaps a future story?) I simply will not go deep into the mountains without a sidearm and will not allow hunting companions to do so either. Finally you will need a 2000-3000 backpack with straps that will clip and unclip the antlers onto the back of the pack. Preferably, also a bladder reservoir with a bite tube for hydration.
Remember, the points always are packed away from you and depending on the size of the antler, the button may point up or down....try not to let the points dig into your butt, or bang against your head. I can carry (3-4) antlers in this manner, then one in each hand if I find a real honey hole. Your pack should include: extra hardshell, in case of inclimate weather, radios, if traveling with more than one person (essential), headlamp, matches, map, GPS (optional) first aid kit, utility tool like a Leatherman, sunscreen, toilet paper, extra liter of water and your lunch. In some areas, such as the Blue Wilderness, I carry a lightweight climbing harness, a couple of carabiners, rappel device and a 100' length of static rappelling rope for getting myself out of tricky situations.

Now that you've assembled all of your outerwear and gear, it's almost time to go elk antler shed hunting. However, to prevent you from wandering from mountain to canyon without purpose, you will need a good map of the area. The best are USGS topo maps available online - we like to laminate ours. I also like to utilize Google Maps and Google Earth. National Forest maps are also handy for finding roads for access into remote areas, but most the side roads are unmarked. The main thing is to have a "search plan" and stick with the plan. Your plan should reflect the four essentials mentioned below. Always let someone else know where you're going and when you'll be back. A note on the kitchen counter to my wife usually works for me. You also may want to carry a GPS and mark the location of your vehicle before you go trotting into a remote area.
As you plan your elk antler shed hunting adventure you should be thinking about four essential items: Security, Access, Conditions and Terrain. Any successful shed hunting trip will require all four of these items to be present. If only one essential element is missing, you will have very little luck finding sheds and likely be skunked. All we are doing is increasing the probability of finding an elk antler shed in a given area.
I believe that elk antlers are painful before they fall off. There is no scientific evidence that I am aware of to support my belief, but nonetheless I firmly believe this to be a true fact. The level of pain may be different for each bull elk, from a minor toothache to an abscessed tooth. The level of pain may also vary with age. So, take a minute and consider how you personally feel when you're sick with a toothache, say maybe a root canal. Generally, you want to relax as much as possible, stay warm and comfortable, very little social contact, have water and food close-by, maybe sleep a little more than usual. Most of all, you really don't want to be bothered. You just want to get this over with and get on with your life. My contention is that is exactly how a bull elk feels when those big antlers start to loosen up. They want to be safe and secure.

So, where would a bull elk feel safe and secure? The question is probably better asked where they wouldn't feel safe and secure. Well, to be honest, definitely not around their girl friends, the cow elk. If I see loads and loads of fresh cow elk scat, I'm probably not in a good area for finding sheds. The bulls sometimes gather into smaller groups of 4-8 when they are about to drop, but most of the time this is a solitary event when it actually happens. They also do not want to be cold, they generally like to be as warm and comfortable as possible. I generally do not find elk sheds on north facing slopes unless I'm working a large mountain with deep backbone type ridges...even then, odds are far greater on the sunny sided slopes. This next one is very important, they also tend to avoid deep thick brushy areas, which are prevalent on north facing mountains. Remember, if you buy into my belief, these antlers hurt. They do not want them to be knocking against trees and bushes...kinda like stubbing a toe that you've already stubbed. However, the areas may be short and brushy, like a live oak forest with the height of the oak around 5'. This allows them to move around and carry the antlers above the brush, but have the ability to lie down in between them to seek protection.
The astute shed hunter would probably say, "Yea okay, but I've found a few sheds in wide open meadows". My answer would be, "Sure, they are traveling to and from their water source and feeding area from a secure area". Elk do not get delivered pizza when they are sick. In addition, you will typically find only one side in a meadow...they've already dropped the other one in their secure area. Finally, there is one last important point to be made about security - mountain lions. When a bull elk beds down, it's usually not in a place where it can be easily attacked. They like to have good field of vision, which means quite often they like it higher up on the mountain. Overhanging rock ledges that they can tuck under are also places that always need to be searched. Think about when you were young and about to go to bed, but you have a tooth coming lose, you can't sleep. Your parents would come into your bedroom and pull the loose tooth out - I always howled after the doorknob and the string trick! If a bull elk is bedding down and those antlers are hurting just enough that they cannot sleep, they will knock both of them off where they are bedding down. A matched bull elk antler set is almost the best possible to a winterkill.

Good examples of secure areas are drainages and just below ridgelines. Please keep in mind, these areas can be quite large, sometimes a square mile.

This is the easiest of the essential elements and the one in which I see the most mistakes. Environmental conditions have a tremendous effect on where a bull elk may drop an antler shed. The main condition is weather and the other is the time of the year. I am going to make another bold assumption that is not based on scientific fact, but I know this to be true. A bull elk will not drop antlers in snow. However, they actually like being close to snow, specifically the snow line on a mountain. If you can determine where the snow line is on a mountain at the time of year when the antler dropped, you have saved yourself a tremendous amount of hunting in the wrong places (most common error). Typically, when I find a fresh brown antler shed the first thing I look at is my wristwatch altimeter and determine the elevation in which I picked up the shed. (A good reason to carry a GPS as well) Most of the time, there is no snow where I picked up the shed. I am attempting to determine the snow line on the mountain at the time of the drop. From that point forward, the highest probability of finding another shed is either 150' above or below where you found the first shed. This means you are zig-zagging up and down the mountain. However, when you find your second shed on the same mountain, you are now adding to your database of knowledge to further refine your elevation search area. In the eastern White Mountains of Arizona and west Central New Mexico almost all of my sheds are found between 8300-9500.' You will need to determine the average in your area in accordance with the snow line.

The other half of the equation is time of year. Bull elk generally drop their antlers over a 6-8 week period. In our region this is early March to late April. However, there is always a 10 day or so period when the majority drop their antlers. Large elk drop their antlers first. I consider a large elk anything over a 50" main beam - usually a 6X. The medium-sized ones are next, around 36" main beam and then the small 3X are last. Many shed hunters make the mistake of going out too early. Our area is packed with shed hunters early in the season, few are found. My early season adventures are usually on a sunny ridge line with 12x50 binoculars and a lunch. I'm watching the migration patterns and by the way, picking out the biggest racks.

Try to limit your search to areas a couple hundred feet below the snowline, using a zig-zag pattern during the time of year when they are actually shedding their antlers.

I have to include access as an essential element since this is a somewhat competitive adventure. If there are a lot of folks in the area in which you intend to hunt for sheds, you will likely not be successful. This is a major violation of the essential security element. However, it is important enough to warrant its own category. You may see bull elk in areas populated by humans, but they really do not like to shed their antlers unless they are traveling to and from a secure area. Think about it this way...if an ATV can get into your area, it's not a good place to hunt for sheds. Bull elk do not like roaring ATV engines or diesel trucks for that matter. They like it secure, comfortable and quiet.
I sometimes utilize an ATV to get close to an area that I'll be hunting sheds. But that ATV is typically parked at least a mile away from my target area. You do not want to spook them away if they haven't dropped yet. You really do need to go in on foot, disturb as little of the area as possible and leave with your bounty. I have witnessed prime areas ruined by careless individuals.

This is a competitive adventure. If there are a lot of folks going into your area. It may be picked clean every year. If the access is easy, the masses will show up to hunt antlers. If the access is difficult, you probably have your own private hunting ground. Here's another general rule of thumb, if a rancher is grazing cattle in your area, it's probably not a good place to hunt sheds. Cowboys ride fence lines every spring once the snow is gone, they know their cattle allotment section like the back of their hand. Basically, you've had experts in your area for years picking up sheds.
The more remote and inaccessible by any type of vehicle including horses, the higher the probability of finding elk antler sheds.

Elk can drop their antlers almost anywhere, we are only interested in the areas in which there is the highest probability of a "drop zone". Quite often, this is where a bull elk will bed down. It also may be where they travel too and from a secure area. However, it is always an area in which they are familiar. When I go into a new area to "develop" I am looking for a specific type of terrain to match my other essential elements. I'm also looking for bull elk scat and tree rubs. Hey, wait a minute!! Bull elk rub the velvet off their antlers well after they shed. I agree, but they also tend to gravitate towards areas of familiarity. So, as I look at the ground and the rubbings on the trees, I'm also scanning the horizons with my binoculars...because I'm always looking for a specific type of terrain.
The best possible terrain is directional and prioritized in this order, south, southwest, west, southeast and east facing slopes. North facing slopes as mentioned earlier are almost always a no go, unless it is a large mountain with steep ridgelines that have sun-washed side canyons. As yet another general rule of thumb, grassy slopes are better than rocky slopes. If the slope is all rock, it's probably not a good area. It has to have some grass with the rock...all grass with a few rocks is best.
Some of my friends kid me about have legs like a T-Rex. This is probably due to the fact that most of the sheds that I find are located on slopes between 30 and 50 degrees. If you're unfamiliar with degrees of slope angle, a 12/12 pitch roof is 45 degrees. A lot of churches have steep roof lines similar to the terrain in which elk antler sheds are found. Obviously it takes a lot of determination to work your way up a steep slope hunting an antler shed. However, this is generally a secure area, with lots of visibility and often near a water source below in a canyon. The good news is, you get to stop every 50' or so, take a break and scan the area with your binoculars.

A typical search pattern on a steep south-facing grassy slope would go something like this...First pass is the ridgeline itself, taking your time to look down into the slope and then back just off the ridgeline. The next pass may be 20-40' below the ridgeline and usually at least one or two more passes even lower. However, if you're just going to make one pass, you need to utilize a zig-zag pattern to cover as much area as possible. The whole time, your thinking about security issues for the elk, environmental conditions in the area during the time the snow line was present and access in regards to the remoteness of the area.

Please do not get discouraged if you read all of this information and do not immediately find an elk antler shed although all four essential elements are present. This is meant to be a fun guide to increase your chances of finding shed antlers. From the outset, you should consider your mission to develop areas where you know that they will be dropping. I have found hundreds and hundreds of elk sheds, 70% of them come from a dozen areas that took me years to explore and develop. I go into those areas three times each - early, mid and late season.

I do not sell any of my antler sheds. They are either gifts to family and friends or they end up in my workshop becoming lamps, end tables or candle holders. A hundred or so adorn the gateway to our mountain home.

The eastern White Mountains of Arizona include the communities of Alpine, Nutrioso and Greer. The 538,000 acre Wallow Fire (Summer 2010) burned over 850 square miles of this beautiful area. We lost our home for 15 years along with two businesses due to the irresponsibility and negligence of the Apache National Forest Management Team. We presently reside 300 miles away at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
Eric Krueger
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Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Turkey Hunting Tips - Helpful Insights For Beginner Turkey Hunters to Get the Results

Turkey hunting has been a favorite sport of so many people since the earlier times. And during spring seasons, numerous hunters take part in this activity. They share turkey hunting tips and vie for the largest turkey. Actually, the trophy status of this fowl depends on its size and the length of its beard. And usually, only male turkeys are hunted. They are generally larger than the females, and their colors are darker. In addition, they grow beards on their chests that may reach up to nine inches in length.

There are also certain rules that hunters need to follow when hunting. The months, locations, bagging limits, and time schedules are usually the significant factors that vary for every state. Hunters need to consider these factors if they want to have a successful game. But for a beginner hunter, a few turkey hunting tips will be helpful, as well. For instance, checking out a prospective area during nighttime will enable the hunter to locate a resting turkey on a tree. This way, he can stick around in the morning and make a call before the turkey leaves the tree. Another tip for finding a target is to determine its food source. The fall season, particularly, is the time of year when turkeys ran out of insects and grasses to eat. So, they consume acorns and berries instead. And because of this, a hunter will be able to locate them faster.

Additionally, checking for droppings and looking for feathers are two other unswerving turkey hunting tips. The droppings of male turkeys look like question marks while those of the females look like small curlicues. Then, searching for signs near watering holes is a good idea too. Turkeys usually drink from these holes during daybreaks. And making use of a hen call is among the most popular turkey hunting tips. Basically, yelps, purrs, and clucks are simulated by the turkey hunter to lure his target. Nevertheless, it is advised that a hunter always bring several types of calls with him.

Then again, these turkey hunting tips are slightly modified during rainy days. Initially, rainy days are the best times to put the stalks on fowls; since they usually stay in more exposed areas during such weather. However, a hunter must retreat if he sees lightning. Then, he must head to an open field, after the rain, to shoot his target because this is usually the place where turkeys dry out.

If you would like more turkey hunting tips and want to know how to separate yourself from the usual results obtain by amateur turkey hunters, please visit
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Thursday, March 8, 2012

Anticipate the Spring Bear Season

The ability to hunt bear in spring season is one of the finest natural astonishment of hunters in all the dimension of continental United States and North America. There are different classifications of bear across North America.

The nearby places of North America is a wonderful region to plan hunting for spring bears. There are abundant of hibernating bears in the area of Western Oregon and especially the amazing and serene tranquil location in the Western Blue Mountains where spring bear season started April 1st.

A benevolent manner to start a spring bear hunting expedition is to search for a large open field wherever bears will be in motion through foraging, such as pastures and broad curves that had been abandoned of snowfall as you would predict are the place where bear can gather food. Gather your senses to south-easterly facing curves because this is where spring bears dig roots and feeds.

An extraordinary data that is vague to identify if a law proclamation through the State of Oregon. The OGFW is the functioning body of the Oregon bear hunting season asks that the killed bears head will be given to them after 10 days. The skulls will be subject of scientific research and hunting reports.

The skull has to be surrendered to the biologist at the OFGW or other office in the State Game Warden locality in order to know the number of bears hunted annually as well as to determine the number of available bears for natural protection and maintenance. It is hard to cut off the molar or canine from the unfrozen skull of the bear.
To be certain that you are part of the natural life in the whole activity of spring bear hunt, it is necessary to have a hunting buddy. They are found in many regions and some of the regions are legally authorized to hunt spring bear.

Outfitters are found in the US: Maine and west to Oregon. Prices would range from $1500-$2300. Meals, lodging, license and guide services are part of the package.
Ensure that this will be the most unforgettable spring bear hunt season not only through adequate information of the native hunting grounds but also inform yourself about the regions where bears are abundant. This enables your buddy to become efficient. Be optimistic to choose your hunting buddy to enjoy the next spring bear hunt.

In addition to that memorable hunt, if you desire to perfectly savor the best spring bear hunting experience, consider the newest and highly improved Nikon ProStaff Rifle scope. It is designed to meet your standards for that pleasurable hunting expedition. While you are having a hard time purchasing outfitters, this waterproof and fogproof Nikon ProStaff Rifle Scope will not make you empty pockets as it suits your budget and manages to offer highly classified optical features such as anti-reflective lens and Nitrogen filled O-ring. So what are you waiting for! Don't make your hunting experience pressured only by Outfitters. Remember that the bear's perfect view is what counts here!

To Find Out More about Nikon Prostaff Scopes visit this site:
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Thursday, March 1, 2012

Sighting In a Hunting Compound Bow - The How To

In this short article I will go through the steps of sighting in your compound bow.
First thing is first. You must make sure your sights and peep sight (if you have one) has been installed correctly. I will assume that your bow accessories have been installed by an expert.
You always want to start out at around 10 yards. Since your bow fiber optic pins are probably still set at the factory position, this will give you a better chance to at least hit the target.

From around 10 yards:
Take a couple shots at your target aiming at the same exact spot with your bow. If you are not hitting the target where you were aiming for you will want to move your bow sight the direction of where you arrow is hitting. So if your arrows are hitting to the left of where you were aiming then move your sight pin left. Do not move it much, just a little. If you have the option to move all the pins at once that would be ideal because they all will probably be off.
Once you move your sight pins over take a couple more shots with your bow. Keep adjusting until you have the correct horizontal (you will probably still be shooting high/low).
Once you have that down it is time to start working on the vertical arrow placement. If you are shooting low of the spot you are aiming them move your single sight optic down a little (not all sight pins but only the top one). Then take a couple more shots. Repeat this step until you are on target.
You can fine tune your bow sight once you get it close. Just keep tinkering with it until you are happy with the results.
I will say this again because some people will move the bow site pin the wrong way while adjusting them and that can result in trying to track down a lost $8 arrow. If your arrow hits to the right make sure to move the sight pin to the right. If you're pushing your arrows to the left then move the bow sight pin to the left. Same if you pushing your arrow up or down. You always move the sight pin to the point of impact.

From 20 yards:
Repeat the above steps with the 2nd pin from the top. But if you are hitting left/right with your arrow only move the 2nd pin left/right and not all of them. You do not want to touch that top pin once you have it set. You should not have to do this. If you are pushing your arrow left/right take multiple shots to verify.
Repeat the steps from above from 30 and 40 yards using your 3rd and fourth pins.
You can set up your bow sight pins at any yards you like. Just remember that the top pin would be the closest and your bottom pin will be the furthest shot. I just used 10/20/30/40 yards as examples. I myself have 3 pins that I set up at 20 yards, 30 yards and 40 yards. I'm not shooting anything over 40 yards because my placement will probably not be a good kill shot. When I take a shot at 10 yards I just adjust my aiming a little low.
Well that's all there is to it so go grab your compound bow and adjust them sights. Before you know it you will drop a nice deer with your arrow.

Vincent F. is a fan of the outdoors. If you also enjoy this life style please visit his hunting, fishing and camping website. Users can submit reports, tips and stories.
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